Underwych

Underwych is a community arts project supported by Vale Royal BC, Cheshire CC, DAN, the Lion Salt Works Trust, Action Weaver Valley and the National Lottery through the Heritage Lottery Fund. This blog is a space open to all to share memories of subsidence in Vale Royal and express ideas inspired by subsidence. The 'Underwych' community play will be performed at the Lion Salt Works in Marston near Northwich, on 12-13-14th July at 7.30pm - matinee on 14th July at 2.30pm.

Monday, 22 January 2007

Visiting the De-Icing Business, Winsford Rock Salt Mine, October 2006


With special thanks to the De-Icing Business for granting members of the Underwych Project unusual permission to visit the mine in order to research its history and gain first-hand experience of modern salt-mining. I am also grateful to our fantastic guide Zoe Ellis and my writing companion Liz who kindly offered her photos for the Blog.

Please note that the De-Icing Business at Winsford Rock Salt Mine is not open to the public for visits and that this article is published with the agreement of all concerned.

“We’ll go down at No 3 shaft then it’s a straight mile underground to No 4, but two miles overground getting past Morrisons.”

Looking at the grid of the mine mapped onto the countryside, I could see that the familiar drive from Northwich through Bostock to Crewe would never be quite the same.

“We use the room and pillar method of mining which isn’t found in coal mines. You’d never leave a pillar of coal because of demand.”

Sepia faces stared at us from photographs of miners being lowered in a wooden tub. Thankfully, we were offered a modern lift. We put on blue overcoats, tried on different helmets for size and then steadied ourselves to receive the weight of the Oxygen Self Rescuer belt. Being instructed in its use was a bit like getting ready for take off. It was hard to believe that men were working the mine long before aircraft.

“We’ll go to the cinema in the Old Cavity 1844 and then drive right up to the faceline.”

Wooden tubs and shafts, black powder explosives, picks and shovels, iron tramways, tallow candles… history flickered on the screen 500ft below Winsford. We had picked our way from the lift to the rows of plastic chairs across a scoured floor which reminded us of a wave-rucked beach. Our boots had lifted over the man-made pattern; our lamps had lifted to reveal the same markings on the roof. Scraping the roof clean. We would remember miners’ preoccupation with scraping the roof clean.

We felt the weight of our Rescuer packs as we climbed onto the back of the truck before it rolled across the uneven floor of the Old Cavity towards the smooth salt-crete roads of the modern tunnels. Salt pillars rose like single cooling towers at intervals in the dark.

“There are larger pillars under the canal and only two tunnels under the railway line. We try and keep the mine at a similar depth so we don’t need to sink the shafts lower. That’s the beauty of this bed. It goes all the way to Droitwich.”

I remembered the geological maps and aerial photographs we had studied in the office somewhere overhead… rock salt, massive marl bands, drift, middle Keuper marl… Stanthorne, Croxton, Meadowbank, Bostock, the River Weaver and the Dane, the Trent and Mersey Canal, the West Coast Mainline railway…

“We’re in Bostock 5 panel. A panel is a worked out area.”

I found myself turning my lamp up toward the – scraped clean – ceiling. If we tried to burrow up to the surface, where would we find ourselves… surprising a cow, tangled in tree roots, bubbling up in a village pond or bumping our heads on the tarmac of a supermarket car park? At least we weren’t under the full weight of the North Sea which sits above much of the other major rock salt mine in the UK.

“Their geological events are up and down. We’re bound in by the Winsford Fault on the West and the King St fault on the East but our geological events are very mild. The Roman road runs alongside the King St fault so precisely it beggars the question: did they know the fault was there?”

“Of course, the Romans knew all about the naturally occurring wild brine layers. The layers may only be few centimetres thick but they cover a huge area. When they are at saturation point, they are buoyant like the Dead Sea. If you remove that layer or alter the table, you get problems. But wild brine pumping is illegal now.”

“There is no subsidence associated with this mine. Flashes are from white salt extraction; brine extraction.”

We stopped by FAB, the Fresh Air Base.

“Air is very lazy. We want it to travel round the mine for 10 ½ hours.”

Air cannot be left to its own devices, it seems. Instead, it is like an unruly flock of sheep that has to be shepherded round the mine. Curtains are shut like gates and the air is driven through salt tunnels for 4-5 miles.

“In Summer, it is very moist but running it through salt tunnels dries and cools it – a free dehumidifier.”

Double boomhead drills, circular chainsaws, tungsten tips, steel picks…

“Aluminium doesn’t last a minute with the salt...”

We got out of the truck and followed the green laser beam guiding us down a tunnel wide as a main road. The beam reminded me of the line of string that someone might set to plant a row of beans, but I wondered what kind of giant was shaking the ground ahead and blasting us with noise as we moved forward. A beast that had no need of the huge waist-high tube that ran alongside us taking clean air into its lair…

We began to avoid shouting conversation at each other to avoid gulping clouds of salty dust. The monster lay like a long insect beating multiple front legs against a wall.

“We go for a 4 metre cut…”

Rock salt collapsed repeatedly onto revolving plates which channelled the debris through the beast’s body and onto the conveyor belt. Two masked men ambled alongside, one playing a small machine like a Game Boy. Yet I had the feeling that the monster had to be placated as it raged against the rock; that the console only provided a slim tether.

Watching the roof being scraped clean reminded me that miners see rock as the unpredictable beast, however. But as soon as the rock is tamed, it is also herded through the tunnels.

“The British Standard for rock salt is based on Winsford. The mine closed in 1892 due to competition downstream but re-opened in the 1930s after flooding in the Northwich mines. Business has grown since then in response to gritting and the growth of the highways. 98% for roads, 2% cattle lick. We crush it to less than 6 mm to help protect windscreens.”

We followed the green laser thread back to the truck and drove on to Deep Store. The Crown Jewels are rumoured to have been hidden in the mine during World War II. Nowadays the fact that the mine has good security, no sunlight, acts as a free natural dehumidifier and temperature regulator, and that not even spiders bother to make webs down there has led to the storage of masses of archive material. One ‘room’ can hold 90,000 boxes. What was once a sea, now holds a sea of paper.

I came up with the taste of the seaside in my mouth. Rock salt mixed with the ancient marl dust that blew here from Triassic deserts and settled on the salt marshes which became this part of Cheshire. Marl dust that rain leeches out to form a crust on the huge stockpiles in the yard at the De-Icing Business.

“Salt is self-thatching here: dark on the outside and pink on the inside. When the weather’s dry, the salt is as pink as the day it came up.”

Pink as the lump that went home in my pocket.

Caroline Hawkridge
December 2006

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Monday, 8 January 2007

Lime and Brine in Anderton Nature Park, November 2006

With thanks to Cheshire County Council’s Countryside Management Service, Dave James and his dog Blue (our amiable and tail-wagging hosts) and my writing companion Lisa.

Lisa feels the tactile wooden map of Anderton Nature Park, her cold fingers listening to the corrugations which trace Witton Brook and the River Weaver Navigation. She finds their confluence. The long ridge of the Trent and Mersey Canal is chiselled above.

“Barges laden with Wedgwood pottery arrived from Staffordshire on the canal and used the Anderton Boat Lift to reach the River Weaver Navigation which flows out to the Mersey.”

I realise that what none of us can see clearly is the history, the numerous previous landscapes of this area. But we have come to feel them.

“Anderton Nature Park is about a hundred acres. Two-thirds of it was Witton Flashes, one of the huge areas of ground which collapsed.”

We turn to Dave's 1910 map where Witton Flashes sprawl like spilt ink. As I try to imagine fractured lanes and sunken fields, my sense of place begins to blur.

“There were several known rock salt mines under the land that fell into the Flashes, but bastard brine pumping was also going on. Any family could pump wild brine. The other third of the Park was covered by the known salt works. White salt was boiled out of brine in huge iron salt pans…”

Dave guides Lisa’s hand to three round ponds that used to store the pumped brine but which now provide coarse fishing.

“Today Witton Flashes have become Haydn’s Pool, Marshall’s Wood and Witton Mill Meadows.”

Dave moves her fingers to follow raised areas of relief. I remember the trees of green fuzz that came with my brother’s railway set.

“But the woods are recent. In the 1930s and ‘40s the Flashes were turned into huge beds of limewaste.”

Salt sheds, tracks and a gantry bridge across the Weaver stand out against a grainy lagoon of pale industrial limewaste in the old aerial photograph. It is 1939 and there's not a tree in sight.

“They built bund walls using rubble, ash and cinder and then slowly filled the beds with alkaline lime-rich waste from the salt-based soda ash industry on the opposite bank. Later, parts of the area were capped with clay and Nature took hold. Let’s go and have a look.”

Dave’s dog Blue leads the way, imprinting his own tactile map in a muddy spot by the path. Anderton Nature Park is a happy place for dogs. They bundle out of cars, unfolding wagging tails, as owners adjust leads, hats and gloves before lengthening their stride.

Red hawthorn berries and clusters of scarlet rowan fire the afternoon sky like hot coals beneath salt pans as we talk of brine. We reach the three storage ponds, now pools fished for perch, roach, rudd. Nearby, we find a low wall and a few huge sandstone blocks: all that remains of the salt sheds and steam pump.

“Coal was unloaded straight into the fires.”

Dave walks us through grassland, our strides marking the surprising length of the shed foundations. The clamour of the pump and stink of smoke and ash have given way to birds in thickets of blackthorn. In the breeze, the undersides of silver poplar leaves flash like fish.

Heading for the woods, we pass meadows ready for Winter. Meadows hiding lime-loving fragrant orchids which are otherwise rare in the neutral or acid soils of Cheshire. Creeping willow has also crept here, and birdsfoot trefoil with its birdclaw seed pods. Come the Summer, blue butterflies and rare dingy skippers will fly above the trefoil's yellow pea-flowers.

“Beneath the clay cap is thirty feet of lime waste. Stand still and close your eyes, then feel through your feet while we jump up and down.”

Ah, yes.

“The lime bed is slightly liquid, like toothpaste, and therefore carries vibrations. Now we’ll close our eyes and you jump.”

I imagine my weight vaguely quaking a buried lake of caustic industrial limewaste.

As we enter the woods, braided trunks of silver birch shed a salty-white – or is it limey – light. We wind through the trees and out past stands of fluffy seed which breaks like ancient surf across the glade.

“Seeds of hemp agrimony.”

We turn down the steep ash banks of the bund past tall teasel and weld and walk alongside Witton Brook towards the brand new span of Carden’s Ferry Footbridge. Reedbeds shuttle in the wind, quiet without their nesting colonies of migrant warblers.

We reach the confluence that Lisa felt on the map a hour or so ago. The wide Witton Brook runs into the wider River Weaver Navigation. It is hard to imagine it all temporarily flowing backwards to flood the Flashes during a massive land-collapse well over a hundred years ago.

Downstream, Brunner Mond bends its back on the bank opposite the Boat Lift. The Weaver is no longer ploughed by steam packets and industrial barges and there are few pleasure boats on this wintery day.

As we head for the dragonfly pond below the bund, the air cracks with gunshot.

“The rifle range has been here for over 70 years…”

But it is the names of coastal plants that take root in my ear… sea spurrey, lesser sea-spurrey, sea mouse-ear, sea club-rush, wild celery. They live here in Anderton, miles from the ocean, but where salt seeps from the soil.

“Dragonflies thrive in this pond because the water is too salty for frogs, newts or fish.”

Calopteryx splendens, Lestes sponsa, Brachytron pretense, Aeshna grandis, Sympetrum sanguineum, Libellula quadrimaculata…

Some of the Latin names of the extraordinary range of damselflies, dragonflies, darters, hawkers and chasers at Anderton. Latin names that would surprise the Romans who exploited Condate’s brine springs; Romans who may well have known the armoured insects with their crystalline wings. Latin names that fly from the twenty-first century tongues of visiting entomologists.

Large Red, Common Blue, Azure, Emerald, Red-eyed or Blue-tailed Damselflies. Broad-bodied and Four-spotted Chasers.

Words that open their wings.

Brown, Southern and Migrant Hawkers. The Common Hawker that is rare here. Hairy Dragonfly, Black-tailed Skimmer.

Words like wind over water.

Ruddy, Common and Yellow-winged Darters, the Emperor Dragonfly and Banded Demoiselle.

Words that stitch the air with Summer.

Caroline Hawkridge, Vale Royal Writers' Group
Posted with the permission of all concerned.

PS I have just worked out how to add a link and realise that it has created one with the title of this post. How amazing! Try it :)

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Sunday, 7 January 2007

Crystallising out of the ether

Wow! All sorts of things are beginning to crystallise out of the ether on this Blog!

Welcome to Heather "down under"... I love the idea that Emma could fall all the way to Oz though I'd advise her not to mention the cricket when she gets there. Intriguing to think that if our salt beds had been just a bit nearer the surface and our weather was rather warmer that Northwich might have become known for land-speed records.

I also really enjoyed reading your poem, Diane. Very evocative and great play on words in the title. Its shape reminded me of a pillar of salt. Now there's another story.

Heather mentioned that she received a lump of salt to take home from the Salt Museum. We got one each too when we went down Winsford Salt Mine. Here's mine...



Yes, it worked. I've just learnt how to add a picture - and move it around :)



Isn't the rock salt beautiful?


All the best,
Caroline

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Emma in Australia

From sunny Queensland, Australia ....
My fantasy allows for Emma to find a way to visit Australia .... to Lake Eyre, Central Australia as this Lake is one of the largest salt pans in the world. Jack Brabham and his famous car "Bluebird" broke speed records racing on the salt pan, during the 1950's.

Maybe Emma gets lost in one of the caverns in Underwych and ends up 'down under'?
Maybe Emma has relatives in Australia, who were deported to Australia with the first fleet in 1778, for stealing a teaspoon of salt from the mistress of the house?
Maybe Emma visits the whole world and teaches us all the different styles of salt production and its uses?
Believe Emma may have family from Edinburgh too as I read there is salt produced there .... wonder where else her relatives reside?

I have relatives in Northwich and have visited many times, have been enthralled by the salt museum, (was given a rock of salt to bring home to show my grandson), subsidence evident in the town, the gritter trucks when the roads are icey. The gritter trucks took my fancy and I was able to clamber on one and learn how they work.

Happy travels Emma.

Heather ....... Queensland, Australia

Saturday, 6 January 2007

PASSING THE SALT

PASSING THE SALT

When you rush around Northwich on your daily grind
And the woes of the World are engrained on your mind
Take a moment or two to shake off all the worry
Just stop- look around you - don’t be in a hurry.

There’s more to the pavement beneath your feet
There are cavernous voids lurking under the street
There are buildings on jacks and bridges that float
And mysterious features of historical note

The salt of the earth has created this place
Historical facts that we need to embrace
We can soon lose the flavour if we choose to ignore
All the trouble and strife of what’s gone before.

The locals are seasoned with stories to tell
Like the salt on pack ponies along the canal
Of salt pans and pillars and long working hours
Did you know there’s a salt mine as deep as a Tower?

Whole families who’d toil on a rented salt pan
Laboriously breaking the rock salt by hand
From oldest to youngest they each played their part
From the tank to the pan, from the pan to the cart.

Victorian moralists were most un-impressed
By the men & the women so immodestly dressed
But the work was too hot and it didn’t desist
And the need to disrobe they just couldn’t resist.

Salts’ uses are many - it’s not just for your chips
It has medical value such as in saline drips
There’s fine salt for food and salt tablets for water
And rock salt for gritting the paths where we saunter.

So spare a few minutes to find out some more
Of the Heritage seeping from every salt-bore
Let’s not overlook the importance salt plays
It is so much a part of our every days

by Diane McCune

Friday, 5 January 2007

Visit of the Winsford Mine


I am sure Zoe wouldn't mind!

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Tuesday, 2 January 2007

Emma's story begins to take shape

I, for one, read your blog, Arthur! So there is someone else out here in the ether. Though I don't blame you for feeling a bit like Emma and wondering where you have landed up and if there is anyonnnne thereeeeeee... who will we meet on the Web... who will she meet in Underwych? Presumably her pink mobile phone won't be much good underground?

I must say that having read your blog, I am really looking forward to the Underwych Writing Day on Jan 13 when we will all get together to create Emma's story. Your account not only helped me visualise what Emma would see as she fell and how she might travel underground but it also proved that truth is stranger than fiction. Dinner parties held in the salt spheres, the canal subsiding into a large hole... anyone would think that your imagination was running away with you...

Perhaps naively, I had not imagined Emma being in a watery world but that is probably because Winsford Salt Mine was dry as a bone when I went down it. But then it is a rock salt mine and not concerned with brine pumping. What a great opportunity it was to go down the mine, though thankfully we used the lift instead of being lowered in a wooden tub! You could taste the seaside... I am hoping to post my account of the visit just as soon as I have double-checked the technicalities with our hosts.

Speaking of technicalities, you asked about quoting other people's work. My understanding is that you can quote short sections as long as you acknowledge where you got them from by including a reference (e.g. book title, name of author(s), publisher and date published). I do hope that you'll post some more of your interviews whether you decide to quote other people's work or not.

One of the things that fascinates me about this project is the idea of the changing surface above Underwych. When we visited Anderton Nature Reserve, we walked the length of the one of the huge salt sheds which is now a meadow with no sign of the building apart from occasional stones from the foundations. Dave, the Countryside Ranger, was being tailed by his dog Blue. Lots of people walk their dogs there now and probably many of them are oblivious to the history they walk past every day, as I was until someone told me. But Blue got me thinking... maybe Blue would hear Emma trying to find her way to the surface and start digging! Blue might even play himself in the performance... though what do they say about working with children and animals?

Happy New Year!

Caroline